I'd say there is too much overhang on those slabs. The leverage from a foot on the edge will loosen it.
I would use a 1:6 cement/sand moist mix for the majority of the slab and then a good mortar mix for all around the bricks around the edge.
I'd definitely rebuild the step with less overhang though
if you put those on there like that with nothing supporting the edges there's a 1 million percent chance the corners will get broken off. You can use liquid nail to secure it but you're going to be redoing it. You need a smaller slab on top so that there's less unsupported area.
Edit: if you look at the picture zoomed in the overhang doesn't look as crazy
Yeah hammer and bolster any concrete and mortar from the underside of the slab. Just be careful not to crack the slab.
I would take up all those bricks and get some bee ones to create a new step. Red bricks are about 70p each and you can buy mortar thats ready to go, just add water. Have a little go at bricklaying then. Make it slightly less than the size of the slab and bingo.
Use the old bricks smashed up as hardcore in the middle of your new step and then lay the slabs as I previously suggested. Bingo.
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Pl600, pl premium, liquid nails, no more nails would all do the job fine
This post will probably get removed because you haven't followed the rules of this sub but I would suggest some concrete.
Looking for some ideas on how to secure the two paving slab "steps" in place. They're at my parents house and ever since my dad first layed them they've not been secure and I just had a try and they're not stuck down at all despite it being clear that underneath the slabs were four dollops of whatever cement he used when he layed them which seems to be what the how to's online say to do. Apparently he's also recently tried again but that's not stuck either. Any ideas on a best product to use so that they can't be just lifted off and are secure/don't wobble preferably something I don't have to buy in massive quantity and is available in the UK as my parents are both getting less steady on their feet so really want to get them secured
I'd recommend bricks to match your house that would fit underneath the lip of the pavers. You'd probably have to mortar them into place but it should provide a more stable step for the top afterwards.
15 years and they haven't cracked, I wouldn't worry about it. I'd use an epoxy to glue the pavers in place. It will be fast and easy.
Use a concrete blade on a circ saw to cut off the overhang to less than 1" on each side, then use landscape adhesive/glue to secure the concrete to the base.
Either that or rebuild the base with bricks/blocks and mortar so it fits the pavers instead of leaving that huge overhang.
Pretty simple fix.
Pour a little pad
Glue them, theres definatly glues out there that that will work.
Remove the slabs, build a frame around the base the exact size as the slabs, fill the area between the bricks and frame with a couple of bags of sakrete. Let dry, mortar or adhesive on top of the concrete wall you just built, mortar or adhesive on top of the bricks and put the slabs back on top of the new wall and bricks. Done and no more problems.
A little less overhang for one. Remove the two slabs and clean up old mortar. Make sure you have lots of contact points between the slabs and the bricks below. Generous beads of landscaping glue and it should never move.
Where’d you go to school?
Do you ever regret choosing a permanent standing desk? It is, after all, nice to veg at the computer sometimes...
Nice. Maybe add a logo?
Excellent. And might I add that, as a visiting Clemson Tiger alumni who has been to many, many college football games - Texas A&M last fall was the single most pleasant host I've ever run across. Gracious and knowledgeable fans, deep military history on display, excellent brisket and cold beer.
Your schedule this season is brutal.
Nice job, Mark.
Where’s your ring?
Image no longer available
I think you live in Texas
Nice. That orange power lead bunched up could possibly start a fire. They get hot when wrapped up like that under constant load. Nice job.
Bucees tumblers always make for great decorations. Nice job on the desk. Whoop!
And this is why A&M is a cult
Really cool project! Definitely NOT minimalism tho! Is there any way you could run the extension cord through the legs?
All I see is Dave Matthew’s Band on the fridge
Great work! And thanks for Mike Evans!!!
Image does not exist
Run the wires through the pipes.
legs on the left side are askew
it's annoying to look at :/
"Minimalist " nah mate that's just a desk.
Upvote for Texas pride. I miss Houston. Nice looking desk.
"Minimalist" aka let me put all my shit on the floor
His school is his identity
You should make cable channel in one of the back legs because the lights under the desk are nice aesthetic but the loose wires kill it, at least for me.
Really like the desk the though great job.
Love the Big 3 fridge magnets
Cool desk Mark.
Cool batchlor of science diploma, Mark.
very nice! I didn't document it enough to do a DIY post on it but I just today finished a gaming table with a 50" hd tv mounted in it using pipes as the frame. They work great! I made it so it can flip vertical and double as a TV stand using just pipes and varying brackets as hinges.
Looks like the image is gone?
I wonder if this guy went to A&M
Howdy fellow ag. Nice set-up
It’s minimalist cause there’s no trophies to put on it
Gig ‘em! Great job!
Gig ‘em!!! Awesome desk man.
Man this screams "I peaked in college".
Truly the bare minimum
Don’t like that burnt orange extension cable but whoop the rest
Links broken :( I really wanted to see it!
That could only be cooler if it had a big OU cut out on it! Boomer Sooner!!!
I am in awe of your lack of anonymity on Reddit.Can’t dox someone if their profile name is their real one. Also Gig em’
Only 12 days OP. Gig em!
Wimbo with Jimbo!
I'm convinced reddit thinks minimalist means something doesn't have other independent objects on it. Just because your desk isn't cluttered with floss and pens like mine, doesn't mean it's minimalist.
O i want to do this with night stands and multiple desks in my bedroom.
Had one of these from my days with Duke Lacrosse. Some things age better than others.
Oh, mark young!
Is the computer in the desk?
This would also be perfect for a behind the couch high table with stools!
I couldn't imagine permanently. Anyone would eventually complain. Earths greatest endurance runners seem designed to be seated when not in motion.
Love that look, steam punk industrial. Nicely done!
Give me the wall on the left. I’ll PM you my address. Ship the whole thing please. 👍
Wow looks great, are there plans online I could look at to see the build and design specs?
Nice setup. I should have more school pride.
Wow are you an aggie?
All y'all talking about a&m and I'm out here trying to figure out where his desktop is
I was thinking about changing to a standup desk lately, and your fine project has me inspired. Also, I had no idea monitors could be mounted like that.
Hang your curtains higher, it will make the room seem bigger.
PC built into the desk?
that looks amazing!
Run that cord down the pipe you heathen
This looks really good.
Looks nice, did good. But HD still allows dogs, btw.
How high is the top of the desk from the floor?
imgur link is broken. need a mirror.
This guys knows how to Texas.
That’s some nice black flange.
You're from New Jersey, right?
Ah a Bucc’ees cup a man of culture I see.
Is yours a RTIC? I bought one from Bucc’ees and yours looks almost powder coated I love it.
It’s a nice desk and a very clean setup. Good job. Personally, I would never block a window with monitors. I appreciate natural light too much. I would sacrifice the symmetry and shift the desk to one side and put the monitors in front of the wall.
Any pointers for a never-picked-up-a-set-of-tools amateur trying to make a bar table just like this?
Looks great man, Class of 11'! Whoop!
I like it , but that extension cord gots to go.
Great job on Parker and the desk
That orange extension cord doesn't match the room though
Whoooop!!! Gig ‘Em
That would look even better with some LED strips and tidier cables/ cable management.
Get a blind ...
This is as much woodworking as it is pipefitting. Some real Aggie engineering to make those legs askew!
How's the weather up there in Connecticut?
What college team you rooting for!!
Just moved out of College Station to go to college ironically
Nice job, Mark! Looks great! Gig ‘em!
Came here to say Gig Em but guess I'm 10 comments too late
What kind of wood did you use? And just for wants, what's the weight?
Edit: it looks great. I might take some of your concept for future projects.
You need to get rid of the junk (right hand corner)
Avery beer, good choice.
"minimalist"Clutter of cables... hmm
Aggies! Let's play Catan bro
Looks like something an Aggie might make.
Nice design. Too bad it's used for cult worship...
Anyone got a working link?
What did you use to cut the pipes? Were the cuts easy?
I'm thinking about eventually making a truly minimal version for myself at some point & like these fittings/pipe you used.
In the photo the back left corner appears to be tilting, and also the computer monitors don't look level.
Any good subs for building desks or furniture?
Awesome. I sell black nipples and malleable fittings at my job. My boss made the same thing but the wood is from some Brooklyn bowling alley that closed down
Damn that’s nice. Good work man. You’ll be proud of that for years.
Is that a special mat?
Your's truly,University of Texas
Probably just an excuse to show Aggie pride!
Gig ‘em Aggies!
Nice build. Wrong team but nice...
Upvote because you're an Aggie
Minimalism seems to be extremely misunderstood anymore.
That’s an awesome build!! Also...
Can I get an AYYYY, WHOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOP!!!!!
This wiring is nuts, like the desk though
Dave Matthews Band
Aggies so good at engineering 🤔
I went to A&M! Gig ‘em
Gig ’em Aggies!!! Born in SE Texas in B/CS! 3rd gen legacy!! That’s a beautiful table you got there!!
Go Devils 😈
Very nice desk, and Gig' Em!
Gig Em! I love the decor and the desk - I would dream for that to be a room in my house! Great job!
GSG and Gig’em.
Love the desk, and the decor. Gig ‘em!!
Nice desk, btw. 😄
Someone did something weird to your monitors, you should replace them, \m/
Minus all the Texas stuff looks good!
That's really awful. Not the desk but all the other stuff. ;-) Hook 'em!
Too bad it says Texas A&M on it
The only problem is a&m
Looks nice minus the aggy part 😉🤘
Very nice, but... “cable management”!
1 Zaza 2
Ah one of my fellow ex-Big 12 friends. M-I-Z you S-O-B!!! But seriously, sweet desk!
It's a shame jimbo and the Aggies are in the sec. Drop them off in the big ten and they are probably winning the conference.
IDK if you noticed, but the license plate are mostly showing in two of the later photos.
Except you misspelled Longhorns 🤘
First I saw a&m , then I see some spurs players . Must be chaotic good
What state do you live in?
JK we Texans don’t know the meaning of “too much state pride”
Looks at Texas flag tattooed on left shoulder
Your diploma has your name on it, just saying if someone gets weird they can probably find you... Should probably black that out.
Too bad it says A&M football.
ROLL TIDE BABY
Awesome job! It’s funny I was thinking about building something very similar. Also, do you remember Arkansas State in 2008? I was there at Kyle Field.
Go Red Wolves ;)
Don't mess with Texas.
nah, it’s not a cult
Ha ha the funny mix of a tiny calendar, dirty goggles on a frame, everywhere wires, scratched bumpers on both cars, AirPods next to an Amazon Alexa, an outdoor extension cord inside a house, uncleaned golf club heads, Equate pills, and vintage stickers ha
Whoop! I’m class of ‘20 going into my senior year.
Are you driving the displays off of a laptop hidden somewhere?
The best part about graduating from A&M is that you can put your diploma on the dashboard of your pickup and legally park in any handicapped space in the state.
Football is gay AF every 3 1/2 hours with only an average maximum of 17 minutes of true play that’s boring
Please tell me you played football for A&M or at least played as a kid. You're not just a "fan" are you?
I was trying to figure out why there was a bar in the middle of the Texas A&M sign.... then I realized it’s a dual monitor setup :-/
I was just looking into solar panels. I’m still up in the air about what I wanna do.
I want to do this so bad. I just don't have the money for all that. Looks great.
What can you power with this?
It really sucks that most places won't allow you to have a hybrid system.
Cool setup, but still need some work to bring it up to code.
How long does it keep your essentials going? Also, the price per amp-hour seems a little high compared to other golf cart batteries. What made you choose those?
Is it electric or part of a circuit of hot water baseboard heaters? The latter might be tricky, if you're still using the rest of the circuit.
Looks like a standard radiator just close both valves as tightly as possible.Use the air vent to check if the valves are passing ( if nothing comes out when opening it’s good ya, if a little comes out it’s still good).Get a tube to fit under valveOne the left hand side undo the closets to the radiators ( do this slowly incase the air vents a (Lying hoe) don’t worry about a little pressure will disappears very quickly if isolation was a success.Then do the same at the other side.Once disconnected it should just lift up and come away from the wall.If it doesn’t it may have some brackets holding it onto the wall brackets undo them and your sorted.
If it fails call a plumber.
looks like steam heat to me.
You should probably consult your HOA or building maintenance if this is a condo. That is a steam convector or hot water convector, like this: http://www.vulcanrad.com/convectors.
If it is on it's own circuit, you can shut off the valve and cap off the supply pipe and the return pipe without interrupting the water loop. How do you pay for heat in this building? Also you will lose your heater and your bathroom will be cold if you take this out.
If you are going to put in a new vanity anyway you will have to open the wall to move or cap the plumbing anyway. Just make sure to drain the loop it's on first. I wouldn't trust the shut off that old so it's likely you'll have to drain the whole system.
I hate how this heater is right under the p-trap
It looks electric. So it should be easy to remove. Make sure the electricity is off. RIP it out. Cap the wires. (Likely old knob wiring if it is have an ÷electrician put new wiring in while you have that wall open.) If you find that this is a gas heater Identify what size cap you need before cutting the line. And make sure u have the gas off.
It looks like the faucet is soldered on.... I would bet you will have to cut it off. It appears that that the pipe entering the house was inserted into the threaded portion and then soldered in place.
That doesn’t unscrew. You’re going to want to replace the whole thing with a frost free hydrant. Assuming you live where winter happens.
Shut the supply off first
Yes, its soldered in. I would cut B right at the threads and sweat on a new fitting. Looks like 1/2"?
I've watched multiple videos on YT. It seems my faucet is A+C and B is just the pipe. However, it could also be that the faucet is just C and A+B are part of the pipe assembly. I've already tried WD-40 on each section. It's still not coming off. I want to make sure that I'm unscrewing from the right position. This is about a 20 year old faucet that developed a major leak.
So first off for future reference dont EVER put any sort of wrench on the threads of anything(A). It will mess it up. Your gonna want to brace B with channel locks and wrench on C.
Also keep in mind it might be brazed on to the pipe.
Cut it out and run new pipe / fixtures
I can't tell from your picture what is corrosion and what is solder.
Basically though, the wrench goes on C and you stabilize B. But that sucker is on there good. If you have a butane torch hit the C and A area for a bit and then try to wrench it. But my gut says that thing is not coming off and you'll need to cut it and replace the pipe.
Take a Ziploc bag, fill it with diet Coke and submerge the faucet head completely inside the bag, take a rubber band and seal off the top. Let it soak for about 1 to 3 hours to knock off that sediment. After the allotted time remove the bag and wash off the area, dry it and spray Some WD-40 on the threads, let that soak in about a minute or two, tap the nut on A all-around the nut/thread connection. The faucet head should loosen up and be easily removed, don’t try to force anything or apply to much twisting force to the water pipe that is coming out of the wall. I don’t know how old that is but you might have to do it a couple of times, a rust frozen fitting needs patience.
C with a pipe wrench on B.
On C, I can even see the flat areas for the wrench.
Pipe wrench on “C”, crescent wrench on “A”?
I would do C and B so as not to damage the threads on A
C with a pipe wrench on a
Use a pipe wrench to grab it and twist firmly but slowly. Keep and eye on the B area to make sure that you're not going to collapse the pipe as you're applying force to area C
Right side of c has flats. You can use a wrench and then use a small pipe wrench on the pipe at b to make sure it doesnt come loose from inside the building
Ordinarily, I would say -- the right hand side of C, just next to where the threads begin. But if this is glued/soldered on, then.... you'll have to cut it off and start over.
You could just tear out all the drywall and out up new 🤣😂
1 part Fabric softener, 1 part white vinegar, 2 parts warm water in a spray bottle. Let it soak for a few minutes then it should come off with a putty knife/scraper to lift the edges. Use the wallpaper scoring tool first so it soaks in.
Before steaming did you use that thing you roll over it and it puts little holes in the paper for the steam to get under the paper?
Instead of steam, spray it and give it time for the water to soak in.
Nothing but warm water and a sponge. Soak, let dry, soak again. It's all we use for any kind of walk covering demo. After the second soak get a six inch mud knife and just scrape it off, trying not to gouge the wall too badly. Need any other advice dm me
I use a spray bottle and steamer. I spray the paper starting in one area and move across a dairly decent sized area, go back to where i started and use the steamer, peels off easily.
Then prime with this stuff:
Just think of it as a Zen exercise. It's a gruelling task but slow and steady wins the race. Earlier last year I removed (well installed) wallpaper from an entire 5000sft Tudor mansion. 3 weeks solid, two people.
I had a hell of a time trying to get 90s wallpaper off the plaster walls in my kitchen. Tried steam, and various water + x mixes. None of it really worked. Finally went and bought a bottle of stripper at Home Depot and was finally able to make decent progress. Was still slow but actually doable.
what about that orangeish goop you spray on it after perforating, that usually works pretty good
1/4 inch drywall over it. Tape, mud n texture
I had a similar situation. I painted it with oil-based Killz, let it dry well then sanded it with an electric sander. It was a lot of work, but it came out well.
Sanding the paper just made it fluff up, that's why the Killz. It hardened it.
Old wallpaper makes me think of this
I took off old paper with TSP cleaner. Worked just fine. Follow the directions in the container and good to go
If you okay getting it wet, high pressure spray, sand blast, or steam blast.
Full build album here: https://imgur.com/a/HGq7YjF
Custom shelves. A picnic table and bench. Wine rack. Just a few options. If it's treated lumber be careful to not burn it, etc.
Regular belt sander is fine, wear a mask or respirator. Depending on what you make you can probable break/cut the nails and leave them inside. You can also force tap them out and fill them. Again, dependent on your future application use.
Power washer for paint. Curious what others have done for screws
So the deck has this paint on it. Best way to remove it all?
Additionally, almost all the screws used are sheared. What's the best technique to remove leftover screws?
If you really don't want to do a baseboard or quarter round, you could slather it up with filler, then sand it and paint it.
Or drop a golden Buddha on the floor and distract people away from the gap.
Door molding. It's small and thin, and doesn't take away from the rest of the baseboard or flooring much. Also called door stop.
Remove the loose crap, spackle, sand, prime , and paint. Whatever gap is left fill with white caulk. The gap is a bit deep so you'll need to apply the caulk 2-3 times since the first application will fall into the gap. Once you apply the last application of caulk make sure to wet your finger and wipe of the excess giving it a nice clean finish.
The caulk will expand and contract with the flooring and you won't end up with any cracks over time. It's a quick and easy fix that looks nice. I've done it on many floors that I installed where base molding wasn't an option.
Baseboard. Then caulk that gap between door jamb and wall.
Looks like more than a gap problem there. Was there any water damage before? A piece of baseboard painted and set in place will do wonders.
Silicone you can paint over. Use it for a lot of stuff like that.
May not be clear from the picture, but this is approx 12cm of wall between an internal door and a step down to a different level.
I feel it's possibly too small a space for skirting board so I was wondering if I could fill the gap so it is flush with the wood floor?
The unused one?
I think you're speaking a lot of hocus pocus.
The nylon brush on the right is suitable for applying poly. I used to leave such a brush in the can so as to avoid the need to clean it, and there was no reaction.
Made with Love in New York City, New Jersey & Monterrey, Mexico.