You should be able to put anything in that hole, a bamboo skewers, screwdriver and push and hold the button inside to be able to open the door.
FYI, that’s not secure at all.
Depends on how it locks. The other responses about pushing the lock back open only works for the push-button lock mechanisms. If the lock is a small turning knob in the middle of the door knob then you will want a small flat headed screwdriver that will fit in there and turn the lock to unlock the knob.
if you took the screws out, you should be able to just push off the inside knob. might take some effort then to move to latch to open the door, but with the knobs off, there's nothing holding it closed except spring pressure.
Expand More Comments
Push a long thin thing into that hole. Like a bent paperclip or something like that. Once you hear the click, you're in. Keep trying.
Like everybody said. It's either a push lock or a simple twist. Paperclip can fix both
Unscrew the two screws on the side. Pull doorknob off. Push other side's doorknob in. I have the same set on my bathroom door. I can't find the original pin, and a hairpin wouldn't work. (You need the equivalent of a tiny screwdriver.) I literally just took off the door knob now to make sure that was the most sensible solution.
Get a bobby pin (or any other piece of wire with a flat end) - push into the hole and turn in your fingers until you feel the wire engage. Then twist it around until the lock, unlocks.
2 liter coke bottle. Cut a square about the size of your hand. Slip in between the door jam and strike plate. Shimmy it up and down while gently pressing until you open the door.
This could be legit but I’m not trying to take the risk and tell you. Your landlord shouldn’t be upset about that too much because it is an easy fix, and honest mistake
EDIT: it’s worth the chew out.
Hey everyone. I know I know, I'm an idiot. I woke up super panicked today and slammed my bedroom door after I woke up to get to my final on time. Did ok on the final, but now I'm locked out of my bedroom. I tried putting a screwdriver though the center of the knob, and while a latch clicks, it doesn't do anything. I also tried taking the doorknob off and couldn't get the lock to unlock that way either. How can I fix this without calling my landlord? He's a mean guy who's probably gonna chew me out...
You have a phone and YouTube; there are probably hundreds of videos out there on how to open these style door handles
Ther are three ways to connect PEX.
Go get a shark bite fitting and a PEX cutter and you'll have this fixed in 3 minutes flat.
I have a hot water pex pipe elbow leaking. Looks to be two metal crimps holding each end on? Unsure of thickness of tubing or if there are universal sizes? Wondering how to find out what size elbow to buy and also how to get these metal crimps holdings off? Any type of plumbers tape used installing these?
Looks like 1/2 inch line, the blue hose seems to be the same thing (blue cold/red hot). But these fittings are EASY and quick, just cut right after your current fitting and with another 90dregee fitting just connect then again and tour done, easy job to be done in about 3 minutes after you turn the water off :)
edited to add~ 1/2 is just a guess, read the blue hose as it looks the same and it should say what size it is on the hose. Like .50 or 1/2 inch lol, I cannot remember exactly
I just went with the pex fittings and fitting cutter. While I do have a dremel with cutoff wheels I dont like the idea of messing with cutting into water pipes. I'd rather not have surprise leaks if I can help it.
Not a plumber but I know at least 8 plumbers. Pex is just a plastic tubing with these elbows that have the rings you see that are crimped on with a pex crimping tool. Now from what one plumber told is that crimping tool needs to be adjusted or some such thing every so often or it won't crimp tight enough. Here is the thing. You will need to buy one of these crimping tools to re and re that elbow. Get yourself the crimping tool from HD and try crimping that ring a bit more. Could be a lazy apprentice didn't squeeze it enough or their crimper was out of whack. Quite possible you could fix this in 10 seconds with a pex crimper. You need the tool no matter what so it's worth a shot.
It's a 1/2" pex 90. You'll need a special tool to remove the existing ring (unless your really good with a saw). Your best bet is getting a new 90 and two couplings with new ring. That stuff is pretty cheap. Do not use dope or tape on the fitting. I'm a plumber for 16 years. Hope this helps
I'm thinking of getting the Ikea tarva dresser, staining it blue and painting the borders gold and changing the drawer pulls. Is there a blue stain that gets that deep? I feel like it won't look good painted.
Careful might catch on fire in this heat
Thought it was a small table inside an aquarium at first.
“Australian Red Oak” - I wonder what that would be here. Red gum? Jarrah? If Red Oak is name used here in Australia then I’ve missed it. But you needn’t worry because it’s all strong and hard.
Does this look like it’s a miniature to anyone else?
I think that I really need to see this in person. It looks summery where you are. I am wearing a flannel plaid shirt and jacket IN my kitchen. I am in Canada!!!!
That looks very nice!
Did you take this photo exactly at high noon? The shadow of the table looks unreal.
Sweet baby jeesus you wouldn’t want to take your thongs off at the table tho. Those stones would be savage.
Beautiful piece of work, stand proud
This looks like a miniature coffee table. Maybe you should make a mini version for ants
I’m curious on the stability. Is there any rocking without rails? Maybe there are some but from this angle it doesn’t look like it
If you cut a taper on the legs it would lighten the appearance up and wouldnt look so much like cankles
Isn’t amazing that I am in Canada and you in Australia and how fast the connection is?
Where do you get Australian Red Oak? All I can get is Radiata Pine, and Tassie Oak.
The casurina is a very hard timber, thempine is very soft. Those joints are thin (even with the all-the-way-thru-the-timber joint design). The when u use that table the ever so slight racking will, in the not too distant future, round the pine in joints. Your legs will fall out. I suggest some splines and some bracing between the legs; some stretchers connecting the legs.
Casurina is beautiful, nice choice.
Should’ve put the table upside down for ”no reason at all”. I would’ve laughed so hard and now am having an inner laugh about bad joke.
Ron Swanson would like to know your location.
I hate it
Cool. Does that globe decoration in the back turn into your crystal ball?
Ever been to Trumper Park?
I heard it was a cricket park named after Victor Trumper
What time is it there?
It is 3:48 AM Saturday, December 7 here
Had to do a double take, thought it was the inside of a fish tank at first.
You from Mackay mate?
It’s a beaut!
What size is this? It looks miniature..wtf
Looks like a 3-D rendering
it needs a head
Love the mortoising
For some reason, and I cant stop myself from seeing it, but it looks like a miniature even though i know its not.
I love it! I have made some furniture (a dining table and bookshelves) but nothing as fancy as yours. Yours looks professional!
Looks nice but the table seems to be upside down.
It is beautiful 😍
It's either pine or Nordic Cherry
Jesse? Is that you?
Why is it upside down?
Now it needs a good coffee table book about coffee tables :)
Beautiful wood and nice clean lines. Very nice!
I can feel the heat emanating from this picture, and I'm massively jealous. Awesome table!
Looks great! Would love one like this for my living room 😊
Keep going for more innovations by simple things... Congratulations my friend 👏👏
This is gorgeous
Why not BLUE SPRUCE?
Nice through tenons. Those are a bitch. Reminiscent of Chris Schwarz’s workbench.
Now put a book about coffee tables on it and you're golden
Do you know how many Pigmies died to make this table?
Could be the last table made of Australian Red Oak or any oak.. or any wood.
Looks more like Nordic Cherry
Give this man a Puppers!
So was JC! You're in good company!!
Now that is something I would purchase...handmade quality real wood furniture! Nice job man!
That's the worst wood combo ever
Its beautiful. Never seen wood that colour naturally. I'm in uk though..
I love that
That would look lovely in my lounge.
If you have a ute I'll pay for petrol if you bring it over.
Gorgeous wood I love the finish.
Hell, that table is pretty good!!
I really liked the way you did the joinery for the legs. I've never seen that before. I bet that took a shit load of time. Thanks for the link to the video and excellent job!
This is great, OP!
Well done, nice work all around. I really like the matte finish, it highlights the textures and imperfections nicely. Are you going to make an end table and couch back table to match?
I love the Zen like aesthetic.
Hey that’s beautiful mate!
I just bought last week a few nice bits of Red Ironbark i plan to make into a Console table and some shelves.
Did you have much experience in woodworking before this ? Is that the natural live edge ? Looks so nice.
Very Blocky. I like it.
It’s gorgeous!I love how you included the imperfections of the wood. Adds some charm :)
Looks about typical that I have seen. Nothing in the picture looks especially dangerous. The insulation at contacts is all right to the screws, wires are bent and tightened correctly. I would vac out the dust just for tidiness. More concerning is it looks like that may be near a sink, if so is it on a gfci circuit because neither socket is protected otherwise.
The ground on those outlets should be connected to the mounting bracket of the outlest. If so, they'll be grounded to the box, which should be grounded. So that's fine. I'd wrap the sides of those outlets in electrical tape to make sure the hot and neutral leads don't brush against the box when you pull them out.
The bare non insulated copper wire/ground is a problem considering it’s not tied to the receptacle. Yes, I see the bare wire connected between the receptacles, but consider tying that to the bundle inside. The paint can cause an issue and that’s whoever painted the walls back in the days fault haha But other than that, everything looks okay to me.
It's not the worst I have seen and pretty common to see other than the bad ground. but I would recommend taking a look at a few more receptacles around the house and if they are all like that then I would pull them all and fix the grounds.
It's not difficult to fix. Get some marettes and some solid core wire and just tie them all together and replace the one joining the receptacles together. Get some electrical tape and fix the white neutral wire that has a tear in the insulation or better yet if you have decent length on that wire cut it back a bit and re join it. Also make sure one of those ground wires is secured to the receptacle box.
I'm not a ticketed electrician but have had over 10 years experience in the field and still fable with it in my current job. If you need any further assistance I would be glad to help you out. Feel free to pm me any questions.
Can only see the leads into the neutral on the right outlet, but the wire wrap direction is backwards. The wires need to wrap clockwise around the screw so while tightening the screw the wire gets pulled in rather than pushed out.
I was helping with some electrical work in a newly purchased home, and while we were trying to re-map the breaker box I noticed that some of the kitchen outlets had bad grounds. This is one set of them.
This 2-gang box contained two duplex receptacles which had their grounding lugs wired directly to one another,
and then a bare copper ground wire was hooked around this bridge.
That bare coper grounding hook was, itself, part of a knotted-together bare ground mess which you can kind-of see in these pictures. Note that the copper seems to be coated with ?paint? ?gypsum dust? from previous work, the copper color is only just visibile in some of the bends of the wire.
I've done my best to highlight the various conductors by use of arrows and by tracing in different colors. In both doctored images, the RED arrow points to the portion of the grounding nest/hook which extended out in the Z direction (towards the camera) to grab the grounding-bridge between the duplex receptacles.
How dangerous a wiring setup is this, and should we be concerned about the rest of the houses' outlets/wiring?
(Note also that this metal 2-gang box was itself un-grounded)
You really do want the ground to be better than that. But it's not as uncommon as you might think to be this way.
Thing is that the ground isn't needed until it's needed and I guess that's why it goes ignored so often.
Screw a new ground to the box. Scrape off the paint and connect the existing grounds to the nice new one you put in. You'll want to check other boxes, but it's not a difficult fix.
It's probably laminate so you just need to run an iron over it so the laminate glue that's under it will get soft and the weight of the iron will press it down. Keep moving the iron aside until you see the cracked area stays down.
Okay, here's the best way to fix this. If there's a screw behind it pull it out. Lift all the pieces as much as you can and pull any debris out from beneath it without breaking the "flaps" (the broken parts.) Dry fit the pieces until you are satisfied with the look. Squirt a small amount of wood glue under the flaps (again try to retain any existing integrity.) Press the flaps down and wipe any excess glue from between the flaps. Tape everything down until the glue dries. When everything is dry carefully remove the tape. Wipe any remaining glue with acetone or paint thinner. Run over everything with a hot iron (be careful not to burn the desk.)
I don't think it will be 100% but it probably won't be noticed by anyone but you.
Rahman Noodles and some epoxy glue
Firstly before anything else back out the screw. Then repair with wood glue ect to stick the pieces back down. Your eye will always be drawn to it no matter how good a fix so put a coaster over it
Cut it out and fill with a clear resin. Or take it out and put some adhesive under it then fit it back like a puzzle.
Maybe some light glue and then a warm iron over it to make it stick back
For an easier but less effective fix; clear debris from the area and press the wood that's sticking into the hole then get a small and tight strip of duck tape it should be flat enough for a mouse pad over top or keyboard
Pencil holder and also what in the heck is a 'writing desk'???
Where is it on the desk?
A round hole for cables?
Knock it back in and put a desk blotter over it: https://www.amazon.com/Aothia-Eco-Friendly-Double-Sided-Waterproof-Protector/dp/B07Q9Z6B9W/ref=sr_1_5
Put a cool sticker over it after leveling it out a bit.
2nd option: Cut out a section where you can mount a flush Jack in the box.
Get a hole saw and make a built-in coffee cup holder.
Was thinking of cutting it away and then applying a wood filler or putty.
If thats the desk top, and you have a phone that uses one, recess a wireless charger.
Could also rig up an on/off switch for computer or accent lighting.
Duct tape... it's never let me down.
Put a cat on it cats love to sit on things
If you can get it flat enough with some wood glue, Mactac comes in many different colours and patterns, and is thick enough that it will cover it without a bump. Turn it into a one-of-a-kind.
Two words, desk blotter.
Ive seen a lot of gifs on Reddit using ramen and super glue. Do that and not only fix your desk, but earn those sweet sweet internet points.
If I've learned anything from those 30 second Gifs on fixing flooring, roofs, tables, etc I would just smash a fuck ton of Ramen noodles on it and hope for the best.
Well I personally like the chicken but in a pinch I guess beef will work.
Buy another cheap desk
Buy another cheap amazon writing desk
Wood filler was and a flat top soldering iron. Cut out the broken part, or just push it inward. The wax needs something to sit on. Then you can get different colors and blend it in so it looks like new.
Get a wireless induction phone charger and embed it right there.
It's not a mistake - it's a design feature!
Its very lovely!
That's right, keep her locked in there
I like the hardware.
It’s our most modestly priced receptacle
You made a nice box. But it's not an urn.
a tall, rounded vase with a base, and often a stem, especially one used for storing the ashes of a cremated person.
My condolences for your loss. Beautiful Craftsmanship of the box.
Cut rigid foam to fit and then use a can of foam to seal and lock it in place
I'm trying to figure out the best way to insulate the ceiling corners in my basement. The wood is flat against the foundation of my house, and I can feel cold air coming off of it. There are joists running perpendicular to the crevices and some piping and wires running in it.
I was looking into a spray-on insulation since they are tight spots, but I'm not sure if it would be easier to buy some type of insulation foam board and cut it to fit the crevices.
Yup I used the rigid Foam cut with utility knife. Wedge it up in there and spray foam all around the edges.
Bat would work too.
Honestly, I'd go cheap and easy. Just add a surge protector power strip and then run a wire concealer down the wall for each.
Nice setup btw
If you live in the US, code allows unsecured NM (Romex) to be fished through walls for retro-fitting, which this is.
Go-to Home Depot, buy two "old work" boxes (old work boxes are designed for retro-fitting, they have platic ears that secure them to dry wall).
Buy 25ft of 14ga NM 2 conductor (usually white cable jacket at thd).
Cut two holes behind TV's to match boxes. Fish cable down through wall to current outlet (may be most difficult part, may need to remove original box with outlet and replace with old work box to get at wires and provide enough room in box).
I have done numerous installs this way.
Edit: pictures of installs done this way in my living room and kitchen
I already heard to stay within code I can't pass those cables thru the wall so how would I go about adding 2 outlets up there (one for each TV). Can I split the power from the outlet below to make the two outlets above for the 2 TV's? I would appreciate any suggestions. Thank you
make a hollow box from floor to tv level
add hollow/torsion box shelf/s for controllers, headphones, etc
Purchase colorful extension cords and attach them to the wall in a cool pattern.
I’ve been very pleased with mounting my PS4s behind the TV using this product: PowerBridge TWO-CK Dual Outlet... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KYBPXXC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share. It doesn’t require an electrician and is easy to install.
Edit: this is an even easier and cheaper in-wall solution: Echogear in-Wall Cable Management... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H9CSY8T?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
You could build a nice little media cabinet around and/or between the TVs. You could then hide the wires behind the cabinet and it won’t mess up the wall at all.
Do you live in the US?
Flexible Track Lighting. I have a similar fixture in my house. I would try Menards for replacement heads - your track seems to resemble the Patriot brand they carry.
Came from Lowe’s, had the same light. Had to keep replacing the lights and eventually just changed the whole fixture because I kept having so many problems
This is monorail lighting. George Kovacs makes some very similar sets/kits. I have them in my kitchen and dining room. The track is actually bendable into whatever rounded or curved shape you want.You can find more info at minkagroup . net.
That looks like the flexible track like lighting the big box stores sell. Usually it's a boxed set with no accessories available. You may be able to change the glass, but the fixture is possibly proprietary. It looks something like these to me:
Hampton Bay 10 ft. 5-Light Brushed Steel Line-Voltage Flexible Track Light Kit with Mesh Shadeshttps://www.homedepot.com/p/Hampton-Bay-10-ft-5-Light-Brushed-Steel-Line-Voltage-Flexible-Track-Light-Kit-with-Mesh-Shades-EC9580BA/202051411
Lighting engineer here. I'd say by looking at the fixture that it's a non-standard track, and the track heads look like they aren't removable. It's probably an off-the-rack decorative fixture (home depot or something), so you probably won't be able to find any compatible heads. I'd recommend replacing the whole track with something more standardized with a lot of options, like Juno track. Then buy any track heads you want.
Holy crap, are you in my house? That is my ceiling complete with beams, curtains, and track lights 👀
Off topic, but I like your photo, looks confusing at first glance.
And here you thought you were asking a simple question, haha. Look how quickly the topic derailed!! I love Reddit.
It might make it a lot easier if you could google a company name, model or any kind of numbers/letters, can you find any on the track or lights? Maybe take the fixture off and look in there?
Those things are every where. Swing a dead cat and you will find one
Looks like this one https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hampton-Bay-10-ft-5-Light-Black-Flexible-Track-Lighting-Starter-Kit-EC6827BK/202204239
Does the glass come off? It's not terribly difficult to find various sizes of new glass to replace and change the look.
I have the exact same fixture that I bought at Lowe's around 8 years ago. IIRC, It's made by Portfolio. You'll unlikely be able to find replacement parts. Plan on replacing the entire fixture.
Tell me bout them beams tho.
Really you’ll want to replace that with wire track suspension. Still some 12v systems around but I’d steer clear and just get a new LED system although most are more modern looking so it depends what aesthetics you are trying to achieve.
EDIT: also those fittings pictured are very poor in that they only make a connection as they clamp around the cable and actually pierce into the conductor. Not safe or reliable by today’s standards.
This belongs in r/confusing_perspective
Holy shit I have the exact same track. Can I buy the lights off you? I can't find replacements anywhere.
I would just replace it with something else, took one of these out recently in someone’s house because we couldn’t find replacements for anything and I just kept messing up
Recently learned that there are three standard fits for track light head h,l, and j. https://www.totaltracklighting.com/popular-track-lighting-styles.html If your feeling a little handy the actual tracks and track heads can be pretty cheap and give you lots of options for styles. Installing more track heads are as simple as clip on/off.
Yes it’s from Lowe’s we got ours to match their libbe style of lights. The bulbs do go out very often. We’re thinking of replacing it as well
What part of the aesthetic are you unhappy with? Just the glass shade? If so, you could modify the fixtures yourself for much less than it would cost to replace all of them... Disassemble one to remove the shade or whichever parts you’re unhappy with, get approximate dimensions for the through-holes that any new parts will need in order to be compatible. Then order parts from some place like www.grandbrass.com to achieve the look you want, and paint them to match your existing fixture.
Lowe’s has it.
WHAT is this ceiling? Is that like paneling over plywood subfloor? I actually love it...
Not read the posts but I'm An electrician and it's just track lighting,see if you can find a brand name on it and locate different type fittings or just replace the whole track with new and you have a much greater choice.
It looks like there is an ID label on the second light unit in. You can probably find a model number or product ID or something on there
I get those on Lowe's for $50 cause they were the floor model. Best purchase I ever made. Regular price is $150 I believe.
I know you’re asking about the entire lamp portion, but you could also probably just replace the glass and/or bulbs
Can you just change the shell part?
Bar light- very popular at Lowes/HomeDepot about 7 years ago.
I have the same lights in my home in 2 places. I got them at Lowes a few years ago. The plastic heads and standoffs are delicate and break easily. Wish I could remember the brand name. May have been Allen + Roth
That looks old fashioned. Can one still find those in the market?
Lowe’s sold them, I couldn’t find replacement parts when I broke the plastic cap holding the pieces together.
I would get rid of the track lighting and find a different solution. Track lighting does not look good
no idea what is going on here but i’m fucking angry
Could not find nothing at all, nothing at all.....
Phteven. Its name is Phteven .
And then they drop on the pixar "i"
That looks like Steve. I'm not sure though.
FUCK! YOU! That's my name! You know why, mister? 'Cause you drove a Hyundai to get here tonight, I drove an $80,000 BMW. That's my name!
Commercial/architectural Lighting sales rep here, former EE. The other responses are correct, this is a monorail track. It will be helpful to figure out your manufacturer of the track to make sure you can find a replacement with the right adapter to the track.
There are plenty of online sites you can get replacement heads (lumens.com, y-lighting, etc). Just google monorail lighting heads and you can find replacements.
But make sure you know what your power source can handle wattage wise. Should be under one of the canopies. You won’t want to exceed that wattage.
Made with Love in New York City, New Jersey & Monterrey, Mexico.