DIY

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1920's flooring update to this century

DIY

COMMENTS

  • topherrobin
    1 points Jan 30,2018, 2:41pm

    As much as I wanted to keep the original, it cannot be sanded any longer and the pee smells from the previous owners' pets lingered. This a follow up to my previous post on DIY and the following folks helped MAJOR with their advise, I could not have done it without y'all

    /u/thealmightyzfactor /u/ailee43 /u/ten-million /u/slambur /u/PsychoEngineer

    The work took a little over a month from the time I started 'til the end.

COMMENTS

  • topherrobin
    1 points Jan 30,2018, 2:41pm

    As much as I wanted to keep the original, it cannot be sanded any longer and the pee smells from the previous owners' pets lingered. This a follow up to my previous post on DIY and the following folks helped MAJOR with their advise, I could not have done it without y'all

    /u/thealmightyzfactor /u/ailee43 /u/ten-million /u/slambur /u/PsychoEngineer

    The work took a little over a month from the time I started 'til the end.

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I see your 5 button panel and raise you my sim racing button box

DIY

COMMENTS

  • murphy11211
    0 points Jan 22,2018, 7:20pm

    Any build details? Or just showing off?

  • SixQuidSquid
    0 points Jan 22,2018, 7:21pm

    That’s awesome! Some sort of Pi board behind the scenes, I assume? Does your pc see the display as a second monitor?

COMMENTS

  • murphy11211
    0 points Jan 22,2018, 7:20pm

    Any build details? Or just showing off?

  • SixQuidSquid
    0 points Jan 22,2018, 7:21pm

    That’s awesome! Some sort of Pi board behind the scenes, I assume? Does your pc see the display as a second monitor?

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Shed foundation going in, am I doing it right?

DIY

COMMENTS

  • SoilNectarHoney
    1 points Jan 15,2018, 7:53pm

    12 feet by 12 feet. PT 4x4 posts, PT 2x8, on the edges and 16" oc as joists, going to hang with appropriate hardware.

    Deck piers are spaced out every 4 feet for a total of 16. Frost level here is 6 inches.

    I see decks with doubled up 2x8, can i get away with a single 2x8 on the edges? Any other issues anyone seeing with building on an impressive slope?

    It is level and square.

COMMENTS

  • SoilNectarHoney
    1 points Jan 15,2018, 7:53pm

    12 feet by 12 feet. PT 4x4 posts, PT 2x8, on the edges and 16" oc as joists, going to hang with appropriate hardware.

    Deck piers are spaced out every 4 feet for a total of 16. Frost level here is 6 inches.

    I see decks with doubled up 2x8, can i get away with a single 2x8 on the edges? Any other issues anyone seeing with building on an impressive slope?

    It is level and square.

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Fireplace transformation - View on Imgur

DIY

COMMENTS

  • HumbleDenim
    4 points Jan 13,2018, 4:48pm

    Wow. I thought you built a new brick feature until I looked at the pictures and realized you uncovered it. Way to bring out a cool feature of your house. Are you putting a gas fixture into your new fireplace? I can imagine an old chimney like that would be hard to get back up to code for wood burning.Edit: I'm trying to think of what I would do with that awkwardly placed little alcove. Have you considered putting a light and/or shelf in there? Or does it work better as open space?

  • Walds1987
    3 points Jan 13,2018, 4:35pm
  • Walds1987
    3 points Jan 13,2018, 4:50pm

    Hi, thanks. No, it’s more just a feature as it’s in the kitchen/diner. The table’s just out of shot so would probably be too warm to ever have it on and be sat eating or what not. It is open so would be possible to add a log burner or similar but thinking will end up with a wine rack in it.

  • vrgovrgo8
    1 points Jan 13,2018, 7:59pm

    Love the exposed brick!

    Looks like you’ve done a lot of work to your place overall (I spy a neat light fixture).

    Have you thought about a built in bookcase or floor-to-ceiling shelves in that area to the left? (Maybe you don’t need the storage. I’m just a fan of utilizing extra space. :)

COMMENTS

  • HumbleDenim
    4 points Jan 13,2018, 4:48pm

    Wow. I thought you built a new brick feature until I looked at the pictures and realized you uncovered it. Way to bring out a cool feature of your house. Are you putting a gas fixture into your new fireplace? I can imagine an old chimney like that would be hard to get back up to code for wood burning.Edit: I'm trying to think of what I would do with that awkwardly placed little alcove. Have you considered putting a light and/or shelf in there? Or does it work better as open space?

  • Walds1987
    3 points Jan 13,2018, 4:35pm
  • Walds1987
    3 points Jan 13,2018, 4:50pm

    Hi, thanks. No, it’s more just a feature as it’s in the kitchen/diner. The table’s just out of shot so would probably be too warm to ever have it on and be sat eating or what not. It is open so would be possible to add a log burner or similar but thinking will end up with a wine rack in it.

  • Got_ist_tots
    2 points Jan 13,2018, 6:20pm

    Really nice! I thought the brick was the before at first and I wasn't a fan. Did you know what was under there? Brave just to start ripping out, but great payoff!

  • vrgovrgo8
    1 points Jan 13,2018, 7:59pm

    Love the exposed brick!

    Looks like you’ve done a lot of work to your place overall (I spy a neat light fixture).

    Have you thought about a built in bookcase or floor-to-ceiling shelves in that area to the left? (Maybe you don’t need the storage. I’m just a fan of utilizing extra space. :)

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Ceiling fan outlet box size

DIY

COMMENTS

  • brock_lee
    4 points Jan 07,2018, 5:05pm

    You don't have to mount the fan to the box. If you know what is up there, you can mount the bracket to structure on either side of the box. Those holes in the drywall seem to suggest someone has already done just that in the past.

  • El-mas-puto-de-todos
    3 points Jan 07,2018, 6:57pm
  • snuffy_tentpeg
    3 points Jan 07,2018, 7:02pm

    /u/el-mas-puto-de-totdos is on the right path. I used one like that in a retrofit. It may be necessary to widen the hole a bi to get it to fit

  • Ligerblaze
    2 points Jan 07,2018, 5:00pm

    Hi all,

    Im having a problem figuring this out, it's my first real DIY dealing with electrical stuff.

    I've removed an old ceiling fan and I'm left with the ceiling outlet box pictured. Im assuming that my new ceiling fan bracket needs to screw into the two metal holes in the ceiling box? My problem is that those two holes are 2.75" apart, and the smallest spot I can put screws through my new bracket is 3.25".

    Do I need to replace this ceiling outlet box with a bigger size? If so, how do I remove this one without attic access?

  • juiceunit
    2 points Jan 07,2018, 5:18pm

    If theres an attic above you could crawl up there and add some more support or change the box out

COMMENTS

  • brock_lee
    4 points Jan 07,2018, 5:05pm

    You don't have to mount the fan to the box. If you know what is up there, you can mount the bracket to structure on either side of the box. Those holes in the drywall seem to suggest someone has already done just that in the past.

  • El-mas-puto-de-todos
    3 points Jan 07,2018, 6:57pm
  • snuffy_tentpeg
    3 points Jan 07,2018, 7:02pm

    /u/el-mas-puto-de-totdos is on the right path. I used one like that in a retrofit. It may be necessary to widen the hole a bi to get it to fit

  • gus0808
    3 points Jan 07,2018, 7:21pm

    I’m an licensed electrician. First off The box needs to be fan rated. The one in picture isn’t. Second. The bracket from Home Depot works fine if it’s wood studs in the ceiling . Not so well with metal studs. If metal studs are in the ceiling I suggest to bite the bullet and cut the drywall and add a treated wood support. Originally a fan wasn’t designed for that location , Thats the proper info. Don’t forget to use a fan rated box. They specify. Also. If it helps use numbered stickers (number book. 0-42) to attach to wire s so u don’t get confused when rewireing. Don’t forget to turn power off to that circuit and turn off adjacent lights where power can be sharing neutrals (white wire). Sometime s u can hit off these also. Good luck

  • Ligerblaze
    2 points Jan 07,2018, 5:00pm

    Hi all,

    Im having a problem figuring this out, it's my first real DIY dealing with electrical stuff.

    I've removed an old ceiling fan and I'm left with the ceiling outlet box pictured. Im assuming that my new ceiling fan bracket needs to screw into the two metal holes in the ceiling box? My problem is that those two holes are 2.75" apart, and the smallest spot I can put screws through my new bracket is 3.25".

    Do I need to replace this ceiling outlet box with a bigger size? If so, how do I remove this one without attic access?

  • juiceunit
    2 points Jan 07,2018, 5:18pm

    If theres an attic above you could crawl up there and add some more support or change the box out

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I made a phone holder for the table. I say innovation at its finest!

DIY

COMMENTS

  • Zedan24
    2 points Jan 06,2018, 7:14pm

    More like /r/DiWHY/

COMMENTS

  • Zedan24
    2 points Jan 06,2018, 7:14pm

    More like /r/DiWHY/

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How do I open this hole in my chimney?

DIY

COMMENTS

  • Beekeeper1987
    6 points Dec 09,2017, 6:37pm

    Looks like I'm seeing the clay chimney liner. Hard to tell from the picture what I'm seeing exactly. A chimney done wrong will burn your house down. It's one of those things that aren't diy friendly. I recommend getting a pro to look at it.

  • Goonmonster
    1 points Dec 09,2017, 6:18pm

    I am able to see inside the chimney on the left side where it doesn't cover completely. But it feels like its a stone or brick type material any one know what it is? Is it a liner?

  • MrCashEsquire
    1 points Dec 09,2017, 6:31pm

    Lols like the clay flue liner to me.

  • FriskyCobra86
    -2 points Dec 09,2017, 6:56pm

    Have you tried believing in yourself?

COMMENTS

  • Beekeeper1987
    6 points Dec 09,2017, 6:37pm

    Looks like I'm seeing the clay chimney liner. Hard to tell from the picture what I'm seeing exactly. A chimney done wrong will burn your house down. It's one of those things that aren't diy friendly. I recommend getting a pro to look at it.

  • Goonmonster
    1 points Dec 09,2017, 6:18pm

    I am able to see inside the chimney on the left side where it doesn't cover completely. But it feels like its a stone or brick type material any one know what it is? Is it a liner?

  • MrCashEsquire
    1 points Dec 09,2017, 6:31pm

    Lols like the clay flue liner to me.

  • unicoitn
    1 points Dec 09,2017, 7:41pm

    That would be the liner, only one appliance per flue...get a local chimney guy to help before you pierce the liner, repair is not fun

  • FriskyCobra86
    -2 points Dec 09,2017, 6:56pm

    Have you tried believing in yourself?

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Using the lathe to repair a bedpost finial.

DIY

COMMENTS

  • meatboat2tunatown
    8 points Dec 08,2017, 9:27am

    Lost the key to the handcuffs, eh?

COMMENTS

  • meatboat2tunatown
    8 points Dec 08,2017, 9:27am

    Lost the key to the handcuffs, eh?

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How to change this really old downlight?

DIY

COMMENTS

  • Danger0usdr0id
    1 points Nov 25,2017, 5:46pm

    The bulb itself doesn't seem to twist or screw out. So I've tried removing the entire fitting, but I can't get it out. There are 3 really awkward metal clips (presumably holding the assembly in). As you can see I've pulled the clips out, but still can't remove the whole thing.

    Anyone seen a light like this?

  • mr___
    1 points Nov 25,2017, 5:55pm

    If it’s an old style CFL, it will pull directly out. I have no idea what is going on with those metal pins

  • grolshbuddy
    1 points Nov 25,2017, 7:41pm

    It looks as though the wire is only supporting the inside socket. Maybe try pushing it away from he bulb and then unscrew it. I am sure it's a twist bulb.

COMMENTS

  • Danger0usdr0id
    1 points Nov 25,2017, 5:46pm

    The bulb itself doesn't seem to twist or screw out. So I've tried removing the entire fitting, but I can't get it out. There are 3 really awkward metal clips (presumably holding the assembly in). As you can see I've pulled the clips out, but still can't remove the whole thing.

    Anyone seen a light like this?

  • mr___
    1 points Nov 25,2017, 5:55pm

    If it’s an old style CFL, it will pull directly out. I have no idea what is going on with those metal pins

  • grolshbuddy
    1 points Nov 25,2017, 7:41pm

    It looks as though the wire is only supporting the inside socket. Maybe try pushing it away from he bulb and then unscrew it. I am sure it's a twist bulb.

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Will my current wiring setup (4 switches) work with new Smart WiFi switches?

DIY

COMMENTS

  • fognabologna
    4 points Nov 23,2017, 7:41pm

    Not exactly. You need a neutral to each switch. Each switch needs a live and neutral so it has a power supply for its wifi stuff. Right now each switch has a live (the black wires that are all tied together) and a load (the black wires and one red wire that go out separate holes in the top of the wall box. You'd have to add a white jumper wire to each wifi switch. You can take the wire nut off the white bundle, add one white wire jumper to a switch and try to put the wire nut back on. You'd then have to add a white jumper wire to connect each switch's white connection to the one next to it. Clear as mud?

  • BurtiePie
    2 points Nov 23,2017, 7:29pm

    Looks like the one on the far left, with the red wire, is a 3 way switch and might cause some trouble... The other 2 should be ok

  • npno
    1 points Nov 23,2017, 6:47pm

    https://imgur.com/gallery/ZYL2j

    Gallery showing one of the new switches (TP Link HS200) and the current setup.

  • Insehn
    1 points Nov 23,2017, 7:04pm

    The black wired all joined together are your live wires, the rest are your load wires

COMMENTS

  • fognabologna
    4 points Nov 23,2017, 7:41pm

    Not exactly. You need a neutral to each switch. Each switch needs a live and neutral so it has a power supply for its wifi stuff. Right now each switch has a live (the black wires that are all tied together) and a load (the black wires and one red wire that go out separate holes in the top of the wall box. You'd have to add a white jumper wire to each wifi switch. You can take the wire nut off the white bundle, add one white wire jumper to a switch and try to put the wire nut back on. You'd then have to add a white jumper wire to connect each switch's white connection to the one next to it. Clear as mud?

  • BurtiePie
    2 points Nov 23,2017, 7:29pm

    Looks like the one on the far left, with the red wire, is a 3 way switch and might cause some trouble... The other 2 should be ok

  • npno
    1 points Nov 23,2017, 6:47pm

    https://imgur.com/gallery/ZYL2j

    Gallery showing one of the new switches (TP Link HS200) and the current setup.

  • Insehn
    1 points Nov 23,2017, 7:03pm

    Looks like it will work

  • Insehn
    1 points Nov 23,2017, 7:04pm

    The black wired all joined together are your live wires, the rest are your load wires