And no, not without extensive modifications.
Typically beams are horizontal and columns are vertical. That said a beam is loaded primarily along its length and columns are loaded on their ends.
The roof you’re showing is a ridge beam gable roof. This beam along the ridge supports the rafters. The ridge beam is supported by columns or by the gable wall itself. This design eliminates the need for ceiling rafters or rafter ties. You can eliminate the posts mid span by increasing the beam size but that’ll be tricky. And (please don’t take offense) if you’re asking questions about changing structure and don’t understand how the structure works contact a local professional to evaluate and determine a suitable and compliant solution.
The structure you are showing here does not have the necessary truss support system to hold the roof up without the support beam reaching up from the floor. The triangles formed by the 'A shape' of the roof and the cross beams reaching across the width of your garage need to be filled with a lattice work of support beams. If you remove the the support, reaching from the floor of the garage up to the roof structure, your garage will collapse. Maybe not today. Maybe not tomorrow, but it will sag and finally cave in.
Edit: You would need to re-engineer the entire roof to be able to have a floor space completely clear of support columns.
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Is it correct that there is no beam supporting the beam you speak of?
The horizontal boards that are parallel to your rafters are rafter ties. The ones near the peak are collar ties. Both are required; the rafter ties prevent the walls from flexing outwards and the roof from collapsing flat.
Then i suppose it is a load bearing beam...
Not sure which "beam" you're referring to. Beams are horizontal members and posts are vertical members.
Consult an engineer that will come take a look at it. The easy answer is not necessarily, but you will have to change some structures in the way the roof is supported to fix it so it does not need that beam and post.
I would leave it, it is notably stronger with it. Unless you are prepared to do a lot of maths and estimating, or higher a professional to tell you it is a bad idea,
If you remove the center column the unsupported beam will be twice as long. To remove the center column would require the gable ends if the building to support more load. The center ridge beam will need to be stiffened considerably to keep from sagging without the center column. Google "structural engineer" and your zip code. Ask them how much a consultation would be. You are not going to get a complete answer from photos.
IANA structural engineer, but you could use 2x8 joists from wall to wall to tie the walls together. Use metal hangers. I'd also tie each of the roof beams halfway down their length, similar (but much better engineered) like that single horizontal board near the light going from one beam to the other. Use gusset plates for those.
You could possibly use 2x10 joists from wall to wall, and run supports from each joist up to the roof beam.
Visit a lumber yard and ask to see some of their engineered trusses. They'll give you an idea of how it needs to look to support the roof.
Hire a pro. Also, consider starting over from the ground up with a garage that's up to spec and meets all your needs. That would be expensive, but it would be a "value-added" addition to your house.
The structural integrity is necessary, but not that particular style.
Edit: found a picture of different styles for you
U would need to run a new ridge beam way bigger to span gable to gable without that center post.. that is a Monster span it would need to be engineered steel truss most likely.
Because if there were a load on that beam Y (vertical) the beams that support them (beams that are horizontal i call them X) will bend downward. So i don’t think it is supporting much.
Consulting with a structural engineer or architect is the smart money wise play here.
Mineral spirits, or paint thinner will soften it. Pry it off with a screwdriver.
I googled it for you. Try krud kutter caulk remover or goo gone, and you can find both at Lowes or home depot. Or acetone, paint thinner, mineral spirits as well.
Uggg that’s gonna be a pain in the ass to get out ... I’m not sure if there are any tricks but I once spent a great deal of time scraping that shit off with any blade I could find.
I recently had to deal with a similar situation. I ended up disassembling and removing the entire four-piece aluminum frame, cleaning the silicone mess off the tile surround with plain old razor blades, and using a combination of a plastic scraper, 5-in-one paint tool, acetone, and elbow grease to clean up the frame pieces before reinstalling and re-sealing the whole thing. It was a complete pain in the behind and took an entire day of 45-minute HiiW ("high-intensity interval work"), but the new/properly-applied caulking came out great and my shower/tub no longer develops black crud in the corners and seams between cleanings. Ooof.
Edit: Vinegar and isopropyl alcohol will also soften silicone caulk. It's best to saturate a bunch of cotton balls, smash them against the trouble spots, cover with a bit of plastic wrap, and let sit for an hour or two before busting out the scraper.
Drown it in apple vinegar over night, scrape it off with some sort of blade/flat screwdriver in the morning
A small, plastic scraper. Something that you’d use to remove a car’s door panel.
I wonder if there are any household liquids or cleaners that’ll soften it up and make it easier to scrape off... my experience with this was way back before google so I just had to wing it ..
Flat screw driver and a knife
Simply a bit of patience may be best, with a sharp blade. Thinners etc might make it easier, but may also soften it & cause a worse sticky mess!
All the tools/solvents available to remove silicon, I still always use a craft blade almost flat to the surface.
upside down compressed air can and small chisel
You can buy products that dissolve caulking but it might depend on what kind of caulking it is.
Paint scraper and hair dryer.
If you want to use a shower curtain, those sliding doors come off pretty easy. Took mine down on our old 1930’s bath & it made a world of difference.
Peel and stick vinyl flooring.
Depending on age there is an obligatory asbestos warning for that stuff.
If you go right over it with vinyl flooring, your adhesion is only as good as what it’s adhered to. Most would either pull this crap up or lay a wood underlay over it for a fresh floor to assure best results if you don’t mind the extra height.
It’s vinyl tile composition, VTC. clean it and go right over it.
That right there is your standard 1x1 all purpose elementary classroom paint right over it floor. You can paint right over it, as it says in the name.
What is the size of the tiles and the age of the building?
Those are those sticky tiles. Linoleum. They are stuck on with adhesive. Should be able to glue something to them. They were used a lot in the sixties.
Looks like Italian Carrara marble flooring to me
Looks like commercial grade vinyl squares, very hard to get up. We had some in a house and the tile person said go over it.
Go back in time and put some tape on the metal parts before you start painting 👍. You're welcome!
If it's latex, use alcohol. Mask the wood.
Don’t wire brush that. You will eff up the galvanized coating, and then your white fence will get stained with rust
Get a piece of aluminum flashing and slide it between the pole and the wood. The flashing will protect the wood and you can pretty much use anything you want at that point. (Just a thought. I’m sure there are easier ways)
Goof Off works well in my experience. Paper towers, nitrile gloves, and Goof Off.
Lacquer thinner and elbow grease. Perhaps a plastic scraper after you give some scrubs with the thinner.
99% isopropyl alcohol and a green pad should make quick work of it.
Avoid alcohol less however; 70% is only medical grade (no aggressive enough) and 91% doesn't flash off quick enough, leaving etching depending on material/coat.
Leave it like this. Paint will eventually come off from galvanised steel
The proper way in my opinion would be to detach the wood from the metal post then clean the post. May take a wrench or s screw driver but shouldn't be to difficult. If you send some more pics i can give you better directions.
Paint the rest of the metal?
Use a utility knife to cut the paint webs between wood and metal, then use a scraper on a hot day to peel it up.
Couple layers of plain old blue painters tape or masking tape on the wood. Power wash metal.
Mask and pressure wash?
Get silver paint for the pole, you'll probably get it on the wood though, you'll eventually get tired of the back and forth cycle. Eventually learn you suck at painting and should try painters tape. Here you'll break the cycle and have a great paint job on both.
Silver paint for fence, just don’t get it on the wood.
paint remover and a q tip if you need to be precise.
or just get more white paint ready for afterwards, and wirebrush that mofo. but it will fuck up the galvanized coating as mentioned
I use my dremel with a little wire brush
Wire brush should take care of it.
Masking tape on the wood, then use something like acetone to clean the paint off the metal.
Try unscrewing the cap on-top (turning to the left). You might have to hold the larger part in order to get the cap to turn. Once the cap is off, you will hopefully uncover a screw in the middle. Unscrewing that should allow you to remove the drain.
There is an Allen screw under the lip that you have to back out.
Push down and unscrew going counter clock wise might need channel locks / pliers
Keep turning counter clockwise... it’s fine threads and you need to keep turning.
Crowbar should do it.
You don't. It screws down to close and screw up to open.
I think the handle screws off
Ring pieces. Just go to the hardware store and ask for ring pieces.
Sister that 2x4 stat!
Sistering the truss can be done this guy does an okay job showing how he did it.
Jack it straight and bolt a steel cradle to it.
You need to get an Afro under there as soon as possible to take the weight. Get a builder in and they have two options, to try and fix the hoist that is already there, or to replace it. This will depend on what has caused it to break. An RSJ might be a better option, depending on the gross weight being held up by the current hoist. Hope this helps.
Sandwich the broken truss between 2 2x4 as long a length as u can get on each side. Little bit of construction adhesive and a hand full of nails. Straighten it out as much as u can. Not uncommon when your framing a house to get a broken truss. Truss manufacturer always details this when u ask for a fix. 20 years as a carpenter, easy peasy.
Thanks all for replies. After reading them all seems to come back to 2 options if I go DIY route.
1) 2x4s long as possible, glue, and construction grade screws on each side.
2) Steel bracing. I found this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/FastCap-3-1-2-in-W-x-24-in-L-x-3-8-in-T-Black-HD-Stealth-Speed-Brace-FC-SB-24HDSTEALTHBL/301943189
I would think Option 2 woild be stronger overall but adding 3/8" steel to each side would be a trade off with extra weight. I could use grade 8 fasteners to bolt it up.
What's everyone thoughts?
First thing you need to do is contact the contractor that built the garage and find out if the trusses were manufactured or built by the contractor.
Maybe call your insurance company and let them handle it- they’re going to want to get to the bottom of it and get it repaired so it doesn’t cost them twice as much to repair damage done if the truss deteriorates and causes issues.
Just leave it, truss me it won’t break.
Okay backstory. Moved in last June. I wanted more Garage storage because of family reasons. I was interested in doing overhead garage door storage, but didn't want to overload my roof trusses. I went up to check layout and found they were your standard 2x4s with metal plates. So since I already have drywall, insulation, and garage door opener decided against extra weight of storage. While accessing situation and moving extra pieces of siding around I noticed one had a break. I assume it was where they cut a vent and hammered the crap out of it cause the cut isn't even clean on one side.
Can I fix this with 2x6 on each side? I'd only have room for 18" or so on each side of the break.
The red handled ball valve is leaking? Or the larger pipe in front?
Yeah if you’re talking about the red pvc valve, you will need to cut it out and replace it.
Just turn off the main water line. Always safest thing to do.
Yeah just don't run chemical through it first.
We used to use that to clean the grills every night at McDonald's.
Someones dad brought one of those to a field day when I was a kid to mist kids to keep them cool, got some funny looks before explaining
Not a DIY but a repurpose. I bought a brand new insecticide sprayer so it can be a water pump and spray off my gear when I go to the beach and camping
Made with Love in New York City, New Jersey & Monterrey, Mexico.