Outdoor carpet, shifted pain additive and paint, grip tape, 3M friction tape, textured stair treads, any of those
3M makes some peel and stick nonskid that could be used.
Thanks! Gonna try outdoor carpet under the lattice.
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Make the ramp shaped like a giant hotdog bun. Should secure your wiener dog.
That spongy yoga mat material.
Used Trex similarly for big dog with blown ACL, same crossbars that he hated. Sun exposure was not bad, so used astroturf-ish from off the rolls at one of the big boxes, not the fuzzy carpet but the slightly more expensive one that has 'blades'. He immediately took to it, was the right amount of traction for the angle. Has been fine in NY winter and rain. [Edit] I dropped the lattices and he was much happier, I thought they were a great idea, he seemed to find trying to scrabble up them uncomfortable. Try the carpet alone first, you can always add them back
Outdoor carpet. The green stuff.
Here's something you can paint on. One quart should be enough to cover that entire thing.It's weather proof, handles extreme temperatures, and is FAA approved.
Here's what it's normally used for.http://www.csobeech.com/images/GeeBee-WingSeal1.JPG
Non skid tape 3m works like a charm
Kind of expensive but it’s durable and will last forever...the spray on bed liner for trucks. Just tape up any part of the ramp you don’t want to get the spray on and then spray like spray paint and boom, you got traction!
The ramp is made out of Trex and is too slippery/steep. Should I add turf or something under the lattice?
Toss some outdoor carpet on there (the green AstroTurf stuff)
Thats what I ended up doing for my dog.
Raptor liner or Monsta liner
Did you follow plans to build this or come up with it on your own. Any tips if I want to try this my self?
Add rug or carpet
Just make it a 1:12 slope, the same as a wheelchair ramp.
I could just be overly cautious, but I would add 2 more screws to each horizontal slat so that there is no chance of their nails going between the horizonal and lenghtwise boards. It might be fine now, but over time the gap could grow and I can imagine a nail getting caught in there when descending.
Use gym Matts easy to clean and easy to just nail in
Nope I got you.
All you need is CLEAR skateboard grip tape. It has to be clear though, as it’s significantly lower quality and won’t damage your dogs feet/nails.
I used to work in a skate shop and believe it or not, I used to get this question all the time.
It’ll cost you about $30 all up but does the job better than anything and will always provide the traction your dog needs, rain/hail/shine.
No suggestions other than what’s already been said but, big props for looking out for your dachsies back. 🙂
The cheapest option for our doggy ramp was some grip tape from Amazon. I can dig up the link if you’d like. We have an IVDD surgery doggie, so we’re trying to avoid it again!
eta: this is what we used; EdenProducts Heavy Duty Anti Slip... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077KGCBJL?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I spring-clamped a small rug on mine. Temporary, quick solution which has been left in place for months.
Man, I had two dachshunds. Lost the first one to back fuckery. One left and he's had issues recently too. I built a similar ramp when the first one had trouble.
I'd go with the tips here about varnish/sand. Any sort of paint really, but scuff up the surface so it adheres. That or you can just buy grip tape online.
Hope the little guy is otherwise ok.
We have two dachshunds and made them a ramp as well! We used this tape listed below and it has worked wonders! Hope you find something that works! Your little one is adorable!
Skateboard grip tape would work
Astroturf or roof tiles work well
I’d recommend Astro-Turf!
Maybe some truck bed liner? 😁
I'd use some of that rubbery/latex type cupboard shelf liner (or the same stuff but made for under rugs). Like this, or this.
Skateboard grip tape
Astroturf, just nail/staple it to the wood and it won't come up from weather and can be hosed clean. Varnish the wood first for wxtra durability, but that's optional, if you're on a budget.
Maybe grip stole like for skate boards, it can be cut to size and it’s long lasting/water proof
Skate grip tape is extremely adhesive on wood andis easily cut.
You are a great doggo owner. I’m so happy you love your dog this much~
Those adhesive strips that are kind of like a heavy sandpaper that some places put on the edges of stairs?
When I did this for my basset hound I got some of those cheap rubber floor mats for cars, cut them to shape, and stapled them on. worked pretty well and were rubber so did fine outside.
Chicken wire under the lattice works well
Grip tape or sand paper may be a bit much over time on the little ones paws in my opinion. What about some thin wood over the ramp and you can use a router to add groves. Not deep off course but thin and close to each other. Kinda like IIIIII if yoi get the picture. Hope it helps
Gatorstep nonskid if you want to get fancy
Does your dog have IVDD? I like this ramp idea. My pup needs one too. Interested to see what people say here.
Go to your local Wal Mart or check even a Dollar type store and buy the cheapest yoga mats you can find. Cut them to fit what you need. They are designed for traction but are also soft.
Clear coat and sprinkle a little sand on it
get rid if the slat and just add outdoor carpet or rubber runner. I made one of these for my doggo and the outdoor runner work perfect
Grip tape for skateboards
Skateboard tape. Use it on my guns for competition. Literally vice-like until I peel my hand off.
Cheap rolls of thin rubber, glue it down and maybe remove the slats
Use a hot glue gun to put a pattern on the surface. You can add as much as needed.
you could also bump it up slightly and make it less steep. For example ADA strictly regulates wheel chair incline, lesser incline is less difficult.
We have a similar ramp... I screwed 4-5 $10 door mats down 5 years ago. Might have taken 10 minutes to install. Dogs of all sizes and ages use it, people use it, and it held up great in both of our Texas seasons.
Until... The most recent puppy started chewing the bottom mat. Even so, 10/10 will use again. This weekend, actually...
RustOleum AntiSlip Spray Might be the easiest solution. Spray it on, wait for it to dry and done.
How old is your Ween? My little bruddah is 11, 12 in October, he will need a ramp soon I suspect.
Velcro booties and carpet
Couple bags of woodchips/mulch thrown on top of it would probably do just fine.
Varnish the ramp, and while it’s drying thrown on a few handfuls of play sand.
9" tile often contains asbestos, true, and you should have it removed by a licensed contractor if your concerned. Having said that, the percentage and friability of the fibres is very low in vinyl tile. I wouldn't concern yourself with any potential fibres in the air/house.
It's totally safe to put laminate floors over the tile, but if you test it you'll have to disclose if you sell the house in the future.
You could paint a product called towerthon over the tiles. It's an elastomeric sealer.
Feel free to PM me if you want more info, I've been working with asbestos for 15 years.
If you ever see the advertisements about mesothelioma settlements, notice that they never mention anyone who did not work in industries were asbestos was in constant use. The only people who really ever had asbestos caused mesothelioma were people who worked with loose asbestos almost every single day without using personal protective equipment.
Try to seal it in with an epoxy resin. If it isn’t airborne you’re good. Depending on the state and regulations you’re better off sealing it in its place to ensure no particles can be airborne
This might be a place to start.
Where I live if you own your house and are not paying anyone for the work anything goes. I have a similar situation except it's siding.
Containment is all thats required....that and not grinding on it to make it airborne. Your laminate flooring has a vapor harrier you roll out to lay the laminate on, this is perfect. Good luck, dont sweat the little stuff.
Just try not to breath around it.
So I just started working on pulling up the old carpet in my new house today, and think i might have unraveled a beast.
I bought this house literally a week ago. Built in 1957, pretty solid overall, just has some pretty dated carpet and flooring that needs to go. Im planning on installing laminate flooring in most areas.
So anyway when i looked at the floors before it seemed that the carpet and padding was just on top of the wood subfloor, so no biggie. However, when I removed the padding i found most if it to be some pretty faded and old looking tile. It didnt occur to me at the time that this could be asbestos tile, so i stupidly went to work on removing some of the tack strips/staples and vacuuming the floor(w/ non hepa vac, also stupid).
Thankfully i didnt attempt to actually remove the tile, but just clean the top and remove the tacks. But im worried that i exposed myself and the house to asbestos, and kind of freaking out about what to do. I know i should probably get it tested, but what are the chances it contains asbestos? Can i just leave it and install the laminate over it?
Looks to me like there is moisture seeping through the brick wall. Especially since it seems like the further down the wall you look, the more the paint seems to have run. It may not have been installed with a moisture barrier.
You could always rent a floor heater for a couple hours.
The ground being right behind the bricks makes the brick stay colder.
Now I am probably going to have to paint my steps. I have opened the door to the basement steps to try and increase airflow. Do you have recommendations for the type paint I should use for the steps? Very frustrated because I am scheduled to put my house up for sale very shortly.
The concrete brick work already had paint on it , by the way. My realtor recommended I freshen it up. Big mistake.
Sounds like you may have thinned the paint too much.
Don't paint the steps until it is dry outside, make sure you do something to the wall to protect from rain while it dries
Cut the pipe and install a new flange.
They make inside cutting wheels if you can't get a saw blade under fitting. They also make insert toiler flanges if you need.
So recently came into possession of my great-grandma's steamer trunk, and I'm looking to restore it. It's in fairly good condition all things considered, my grandparents used it to store their best linens, but obviously the tin and paint is starting to rust away. I'd like to repaint the tin in a similar color, but I'm not exactly sure where to start with that process. I understand that I need to get the rust off, steel wool or a dremmel could be helpful with that, but how much of the paint needs to be removed for instance and how should I go about painting it and protecting it from rust during that process. I'd really appreciate any advice that anyone has relating to repainting the tin siding or just any general advice with the restoration process.
Link to full album in case anyone wants to see it from additional angles: https://imgur.com/a/z0VLmzy
Interesting Fact: The first LED flicker candles were simply a LED in place of a speaker. The circuit was from a birthday card that played a song. It was repurposed as a candle. So your candle was flickering to the song Happy Birthday.
GitHub of all 3 milestones to do it yourself: https://github.com/keith204/KeithsLEDCandle/
I'm totally new to Imgur and do not seem to know how to link to the YouTube video. The link I put in the Imgur description put spaces on the sides of the period. Can I post the YouTube link here or would that be seen as spam?
Okay but what about the floating hand
Wouldn't buying a candle be easier?
I'm a little tired and I thought this was some spooky ghost hand that was included with the candle and thought it was so cool
I'll be impressed when they make one that burns your house down if knocked over, too
Serenity by Jan has been doing these for years. They even have a bonfire scent.
Inhaling vaporized oil can be very bad for the lungs, called lipid pneumonia so I'd avoid using oil in this. Glycerin is a much better option
Isn’t that just called a “candle?”
I actually thought the hand was made of/coming from the smoke. That would be a great photoshop project.
You can't challenge your friend who can put his hand longer on the candle before it hurts too much from the searing heat of the fire.
Just scrolling and i see someone dipping a glowing oreo in milk. Welp, maybe next time.
That is awesome, thanks so much for the links.
Why can't you just buy a candle....
I thought this was a painting of an arm disappearing into smoke
Damn okay but candles are literally a few cents
Why would you want the smoke and the smell? The people I know who uses LED candles does it because of asthma precisely to avoid all the stuff in the air.
I don't understand why you would want this.
Sick vape bro
At that point just buy a candle
That's neat, but why not use a real candle at that point?
Alright, looks like we're gonna have to change that phrase to "re-inventing the candle"
I was quite drunk, walking down a dark corridor browsing reddit and found this and damn did it freak me out for a bit.
I am ready for the next candle dimension.
I am ready to taste.
Is the disembodied forearm included or do I need to summon one?
Why not use a real candle then
Or.... you just buy and use real candles...
Okay, but what about Question 7. Can it keep my tea warm? Or light my house on fire for that matter
Are you sure it isn't just a candle.
I bet someone programmed this on a raspberry pi or something cool like that! I can see them sitting at there desk trying different things until they hit the jackpot.
Edit: Oh shit it was! You did it on an arduino, I dig you!
Very nice project. Be nice to have one with RGB changing colors to whatever you like with the same flicker. Maybe tell the hour by color transition. Great job on the project 👍
At that point just get a fucking candle lmao
I love the concept, what an irreverently fun project :)
Thank you for posting!
Every day our simulation of our simulation gets more "real."
Take a green technology and make it wasteful again, genius.
This look really real! I’m amazed! Do you think someone with no knowledge in small electronics and programming be able to make one of these? What do you think would be the cost and time?
I can honestly say that I've never subbed to a YT channel with less than many thousands (or tens of thousands?) of subscribers. Yours will be the first. I'm rooting for you! Looking forward to future projects!
I think I'll just pay the $2 for a real candle.
I know you mentioned you dont really have a use for this, but this would make an extremely useful theatre prop. A lot of theatres have tight firecodes and wont allow the use of an open flame during a performance. Anytime any one in a play has a candle on stage they always have to awkwardly hide the action of flicking a switch to turn it on or off.
Take them down and wood glue and hold it all together with books or something heavy.
Wood glue would work well if you have all the pieces. Nails may not work if the wood is cheap. You dont want any pieces to split or break.
Just figured out how the pieces go back together first then glue them where they join together. Use a clamp to hold them together if you can.
I bet those things are all rotted out. Do you really need them at all?
Buy new shutters. They're cheap.
hire a professional if you don’t know how to DIY.
Really depends on the state of the wood, take them down and have a look at it. Small nails might suffice to be honest.
Yeh that’s not dampness nor anything to do with conditions.
The person who did the work didn’t skim it out smoothly enough, looks to be he did a second coat and smoothed it out and left it, he should have done at least another 2 smooth over coats when it was drying.
How long did it take him to do the job start to finish?
Sounds like you got the ‘good enough’ special.
Plaster contractor here. One small point is that doesn't look like plaster but rather drywall mud. (Did his material come in a big 50 lb bag as a dry mix or was it a small 20lb bag/bucket?)
If it was plaster it would have been the 50lb bags and a bonder applied first and no sanding as the material is hard troweled as it sets to be smooth. Drywall is multiple skim coats and sanding. There is quite a difference in process and finished quality but it doesn't matter at this point.
To fix this skimming with drywall mud is probably your cheapest option. It'll take at least 2 coats and someone who knows how to use some tools but can be fixed pretty easily. (Not cheap though... At least I'm not. You tend to get what you pay for with this trade. Most skilled people don't even try to compete with the cheapest price, it's a race to the bottom and people can only survive on the low price by leaving trash work) Hope it goes well.
A skim over new pb should be better than this even in direct sunlight. Call him back.
Hanging the drywall is easy.
Mudding and Finishing the drywall is an art.
I have spent more time trying to make the hole where the door knob went through the drywall in my bathroom look good than the guy spent doing my entire second floor
Here is what happened- it dried. Person who did it just never smoothed you wall enough and plastered it smooth. After it dried, it shrunk to the shape of your uneven wall. Call them back and tell to redo it properly.
Your wall is pregnant
To be fair, having the light come at that wall at that angle is pretty harsh. Take a really bright flashlight and lay it against any drywall, and you're likely to see lumpiness, unless you paid for a level 5 finish.
It's tough to tell from the picture exactly how bad this is.
They weren't professionals
Looks like he used 15 minute mud and didn’t wait for it to dry all the way.
Either that, or he didn’t sponge and finish afterwards... but that can usually be fixed by primer.
It actually looks like a mix of problems between the streaks and the bulge..
Call and complain for a shit job?
It was not sanded/wetted enough. You can sand it, lightly re-plaster, let it dry, sand again lightly, buff out with a wet rag, let it dry, then re-paint. Source: I am in constant renovation of a 120 year old house and have had to do this all over the place.
Common mistake. You didn't have it professionally done, you gave money someone to do it. Few people know the difference
That’s how it was when they left. The lighting is just hitting it from an angle to where you can see the imperfections.
I don't know what it is about Plasterers, but they are some of the least honest contractors I have dealt with. Apologies to the honest Plasterers on reddit, you guys are a huge help.
Had 3 separate jobs involving Plasterers, ALL 3 of them just noped out of the job halfway through. One kept me going for many months, promising to come back and finish. I saw him about a year later at the grocery store, and he turned white and bolted, LOL
Looks like it hasn't dried out properly. Or that it's taken longer than they wanted to spend going over it to dry out enough to leave it. If it's onto fresh boards I'be be calling them to get it sorted out. Sh**e job done
The Devil will show his face through this wall before the next mud dries.
The professional was probably plastered.Source: I used to do drywall with a drunk.
They didn't put a bonding coating on first,,get a professional plasterer next time
I've done drywall once in my life...and...they just didn't finish I think....should of put one or two more layers on and sanded it smooth!
The sun came out and showed you what you could not see before. Call him back.
Plaster isn't white... In which case the paint has not stuck to the new plaster because it has absorbed all the moisture from the paint. They should have told you to use 1 part paint to 4 parts water to help it cling to the plaster.
sanded it when it was still damp then didn't skim coat it.. make him fix it
Thank you for all the replies. Had so many more than expected. After reading through, we are going to get it redone as many of you have suggested to flatten it out. Thanks again
u/jockobyvilla is right on. This is not necessarily a reflection of the contractors work. These things happen. They should have no problem coming back and finishing it properly. Again, these things happen.
lol this "happened" b/c you "happened" to get the repair area between you and light source... you can easily inspect what you or your sheet rock finishers have done with the use of a bright halogen light perpendicular to the surface...
That's not even the end of it; clearly he never sanded. Is sanding not a basic expectation anymore? When I was sheetrocking when I was young, if u didn't sand u didn't finish the fucking job, at allll
The job was not done properly, they should've used putty 3 or 4 faces applied before painting.
Using directed lights at the wall will expose the issues in the wall smoothness before applying paint and calling it done.
It was unprofessionally plastered
You hired a shitty contractor 🤷♀️
Looks like they did it over wallpaper?
Nothing happened... he did a crap job and it took you 3 weeks to notice.
I had this happen too. Eagerly awaiting a more knowledge person to answer.
Looks like the plaster hadn’t dried properly as if the moisture content was too high or wasn’t given enough time to cure. As it dried it shrank, causing the shitty finish you see.
I most commonly see this when amateurs try to fill a large hole with only drywall mud.
I have the same curtains
Professional isn't always professional. Keep that in mind, from a tradesman.
The float wasn’t done right which is the third hand and the sanding is horrible, these ppl were not professional ,,, ive done this for years not no more but this was a poor job . This is the job done for texture not flat walls.
You paid professional prices and received amateur results.
Yeah, from booze
I agree with the top post here, that it's always been there and the guy didn't finish the job. But to add you're only now seeing it because of the light. I saw a seam in our walls that was "never there before" because the light hit our curtains the exact same way. Annoys the hell out of me in the afternoon when the light hits it just right.
What happened is that you didn’t actually hire a professional.
Part of your problem is that your window and curtain provide the perfect type of light to see these imperfections. This is just like when Dirty Jobs had a segment about a surfboard maker. It showed that you needed diffuse indirect lights to the imperfections he was trying to sand out. How visible is this with an overhead or flash on it?
Just curious why the poster would ask the question then not respond to obvious professionals who asked follow up questions.
Canadian Classically trained master plasterer. That’s a crappy application and heavy scars from improper sanding technique and grit. The light shear emphasizes the unevenness in application and sanding scars.
It didn’t change. It was always like that. You just didn’t notice it due to not looking at it in different lights at different times of the day when the sun or a light is casting a shadow over the different heights of the patch vs the rest of the wall.
It probably looks better when the sun isn’t shining. The height differences will show more when light is cast on it from different directions.
Basically he didn’t flatten it out enough.
Cut it out and put new Sheetrock in its place.
A good taper will tell you once there’s a lump like that you really cannot float it out if it’s near a light source like a window or a wall sconce.
I’ve been taping for almost 35 years now.. just cut that shitty patch out and start over
If it was perfect and just started looking like that, the window is leaking or there's a condensation problem (warm interior, cold exterior, like a glass of water and you need insulation/moisture barrier)If it was like that when he finished, call him back because he did a shit job, or learn to do it yourself, it's incredibly easy and almost the only excuse for a job like that is alcohol or apathy.
The finisher probably only did one or two coats. To get that super smooth finish you really need to skim it with a topping compound and it takes quite a bit more time and a few more coats. I am thinking they did not skim coat it
I wish the plaster I did looked that good...
Have you seen Stranger Things?
Hasnt been sanded back.. Looks like its only been sheeted and mud put on.Usually the next day they come in with a big rotory sander /vac and smooth it all down before painting .
The problem is you used plaster instead of sheetrock. If you want a smooth durable wall that can take holes, repairs, doesn't fall apart from the slightest vibration, and doesn't cost a million dollars a room, you want sheetrock.
I actually don't mind it. It reminds me of the Spanish style casas and provides some texture to the wall.
- not the guy who did the job
That's a drag. Occassionally I've seen that but not very often. It does seem water must be finding a way in somehow.
If that bulge is soft, there may be water back there.
maybe not so professionally...
They didnt finish the job properly.
could have been accident or oversight. Lighting conditions are changing a lot this time of year (assume that is natural light highlighting the problem). He should have used lights at different angles following his 3rd or 4th coat to ensure even spread. I am a terrible mudder but occasionally have to do the job so it takes forever. Most of my imperfections show up when daylight hits the work I did because the down lighting of rooms is forgiving and I get cocky. A master plasterer should know better though as it is their job.
If plaster is anything like mud, that huge bump shouldn’t even be there. I doubt the person who did this even possesses the ability to float that out.
What did you pay for level 3 coat of mud and finish or level 5 skim coat??
How long after the work was it painted my guess is day after??
Job wasn't done correctly, anyone vouch for this guy before you hired him?
Wasn’t sanded enough
He plastered over your parrot (inverted) and now it's fermenting a bit.
needs moar sanding
Top comments are correct. Half ass job.
Looks like you got your wall unprofessionally done.
Professional != a good job
Go get an extremely bright flashlight and place it on the surface of your wall or ceiling. You will see the same effect exposing imperfections in the drywall it plaster work. Contractor for 15+ years.
There is someone trapped in the wall...
Drywall never tastes as good as I want it to..
Rotate pic side way. You got a night photo of sun light behind the horizon... in cold ice land maybe
I used to sand by hand and this is how it would turn out, I'm a DIYer, once I bought the machine to sand, these issues went away.
That mudder fucker did an awful job.
drywall and mud is much easier to smooth out. I find doing plaster work ungodly brutal. I can't tell you how much of a PIA it is. I learned some of it working on my grandparents house. While mudding onto drywall is a semi art. Plaster is nothing but art, it takes years of skill to get it right.
Hired a professional in a DIY tab.
This happened. You said so yourself.
You cart too often in your home, the moisture from the tiny amounts of shit particles water logged the plaster and is now malformed.
Just watched The Mummy last nite, so I know scarabs when I see them.
so it wasnt a professional job
I believe this is a monster from the Upside Down trying to enter our world at a weak point.
Sorry if this was asked before, but - but how old is the house, and what type of material is underneath it?
I bought a 1920s bungalow, where the sellers had put a quick coat of paint over old the lime plaster in the basement. Within a year it was lumpy and crumbling all over the place. I tried all the sealants, drywall patch, masonry fillers... just made it worse. This material was meant to beathe and self-regulate with changes in temperature and humidity. It got better when I stripped off all of the modern crap, and laid a coat of homemade ye olde lime plaster on.
Nothing’s happened, it’s just a bad job being highlighted by the direction of the light. Had something similarly bad plastering job done before.
it's bad work. Call them back.
It's just ruff, a better contractor could easily fix that with a skim..
You may as well have done it yourself.
You said it yourself. This. This happened.
need another box of mud, gonna have to float that whole dang wall out.
Wow what a shit job..
You didn’t do it yourself
Looks like drywall finisher, not plaster.
Union commercial drywall finisher here. Most of the work we do is smooth wall.
This should have taken a minimum of 3 coats.
There are a few options on how to accomplish this. One is with conventional finishing compound. Each coat would take around 24 hours to cure properly.
Did the drywall finisher come back for 3 individual coats?
The other option would be to use a combination of “hotmud” ,a type of finishing compound that sets quickly so that multiple coats can be applied on the same day. Best practices for finishing a hotmud patch would be to top (first coat) and skim (second coat) with hotmud and then prep (third coat) with conventional finishing compound. It is best to finish the final coat with conventional compound as opposed to hotmud to avoid “flashing”. Flashing comes in a few forms but essentially once painted you will be able to see the patch due to the difference in how the paint is absorbed by the material beneath.
If using hotmud, it’s important to realize that although the material is quick setting and you’re able to apply another coat, that compound is not fully cured... just set up enough to put more coats on it. It’s still best to allow proper dry time before sanding.
The final step is sanding. This is the final and most critical step in finishing smooth walls. The finish man should be using a high powered 500w hologram lamp set close to the wall at close to a 90 degree angle. The goal is to make the light as unflattering as possible so you can really see what the surface looks like under the most critical of lighting conditions.
What this looks like to me here is possibly hotmud only and lazy sanding.
Your curtain is reflecting light against the wall in a way that exposes those imperfections.
All of this being said, if you pay for “level 4” finish standard say it will be smooth, not perfectly flat, and for critical lighting conditions you should opt for “level 5”
There is so much more to say on this but I’m on the shitter and my legs are falling asleep.
My god, it's the rocking chair of my childhood
Linseed oil will help saturate the wood where it’s finish has worn away, clean with Murphy’s wood oil soap first, and you should be golden.
Had that exact chair in my house in the 80s and a long-lost obese uncle stopped by and sat in it and shattered it.
My parents have two of these here in Brazil that look exactly like this down to the last detail, was this technique used everywhere?
Try magic erasers to blend the scratches. It’s like super fine sandpaper.
Really cute actually
Made with Love in New York City, New Jersey & Monterrey, Mexico.